I think I have about 20 of them stashed in a box someplace. Here is a little rope trick for you. We just talked about this in the Suzuki forum.
The penny is soft enough that it will bend before any possible damage could be done to other parts. One of my manuals says to put an aluminum washer between the primary gear and the basket gear to prevent it from spinning. A piece of rope works well too, anything soft enough that it won't hurt the teeth of the gears. The "peice of metal in the gears" only works if the clutch is assembled and the pressure plate is intact. Otherwise, the hub attached to the trans input shaft just rotates.
Spend a few bucks on the tool and do the job right. It'll save you the money in broken parts trying to rig something up. The thought of putting pressure on other components kind of scares me.
I finally found the tool today at Cycle Gear. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Is there any way to remove the clutch basket without a holder tool? Share More sharing options Followers 0. Recommended Posts. Cookie settings Accept. Manage consent. Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website.
Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website.
These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. Necessary Necessary. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". It does not store any personal data. Functional Functional. The clutch holding tool must engage the basket and hub at the same time in order to fit.
The exact position of the clutch holding tool handle is not important at this time as long as it is more or less between pointing up or toward the back of the bike. You may adjust the position of the hub so that the hub splines, the fingers of the basket and the clutch holding tool tangs align.
To align the hub to the basket, simply move the rear wheel clockwise a few degrees with your hand. This will turn the transmission which will make the clutch hub turn counterclockwise. You may also just turn the clutch hub by hand or turn the clutch hub nut with a 30 mm socket. Since the clutch plates are removed, the engine is not connected to the hub in any way except possibly by an oil film so the basket and engine should remain in position.
With clutch plates and springs removed, the hub and basket move independently of one another. By turning the rear wheel forward, the hub will turn counterclockwise while the basket remains in position. The basket, hub and engine will turn in the correct direction at the same time. If you turn the basket too far, continue turning counterclockwise until a suitable position is found.
Now that the clutch holding tool is fit to the clutch hub and basket, you may turn the handle of the tool counterclockwise not clockwise so that it rests against a floor jack or other stable solid object.
Do not arrange the handle too far past horizontal or it will be more likely to slip. The spike on my Heindl swing arm stand supported the clutch tool handles. I made a wooden block that fits on the tapered spike to create a level surface for both clutch holding tools to rest against.
The square dowels are just for positioning of the block and the eye screw and hook are for attaching a rubber band to hold the block to the spike. The sloped surface on the block conforms to the taper of the spike and creates a level surface for the clutch holding tool handles to rest against. Verify that the front wheel is lowered and the rear suspension is unloaded.
Place the transmission in Neutral. If you are using a swing arm pivot stand or any stand that lowers by tilting backward, you will need to put books under the rear wheel so that the stand cannot be levered backward. Place a 30 mm impact socket with breaker bar on the the hub nut. Vertical will be the position least likely to lever the bike over but being that the leverage is applied at the center of the bike, this danger is minimized.
Turn the breaker bar counterclockwise to break the hub nut free. Be careful, applying gradual torque to feel if the bike tilts on the spool forks or if the stand tilts. Do not wrench the handle abruptly. This nut was very hard to break free, even with the breaker bar. I positioned myself opposite of how you see me in the picture above so that I was looking toward the front of the bike.
I braced my knee against the stand, my left hand against the fuel tank and pulled with my right hand. You may notice that the reduced portion of the hub nut has a flattened spot on it as though it were hit with a hammer. This bend in the threads is a self locking mechanism. Remove the clutch hub nut and the two washers beneath it. Zip tie the three together so that they remain in the same order and with the faces oriented as they were when they were removed.
Place these parts in a clean plastic bag. Remove the clutch holder tools. Use a Sharpie to mark the threads on the input shaft to two splines on the clutch hub. Pull the clutch hub straight out off of the shaft. Now mark the end of the spline on the input shaft. The anti judder ring and seat will be located around the bottom of the splines of the clutch hub. These parts do not need to be removed except for inspection or to replace them.
Be careful not to let them fall off of the hub. The inner flat washer will probably remain stuck to the hub on the other side. Be careful not to drop it and keep its orientation as removed. Before pulling the sleeve located on the input shaft inserted through the center of the basket, mark the teeth of the big primary gear around the outside of the basket to the crankshaft gear.
When the sleeve is removed, the clutch basket will be loose in the engine case and it will be impossible to positively match theses two gears together as they came apart.
0コメント